Not all of the parts in this guide may be present on your reciprocating saw; it depends on the type of saw you have and the features it comes with. Corded saws don’t come with battery packs, to give an example.
When it comes right down to the basic parts, though, different types of reciprocating saws will have the same basic parts such that you can switch between them and learn how to use them in no time at all.
1. The Blade
The blade is the business end of a reciprocating saw and the reason why it’s such a versatile cutting tool in the first place. You have a material you need to cut?
Chances are, there’s a reciprocating saw blade for that.
For regular sized reciprocating saws, most of the blades on the market come anywhere from as short as two inches to as long as 12 inches.
General purpose demolition blades and blades meant for fast wood cutting are the longest ones you will usually find, and these are available at 6 inch or 12-inch lengths. They have coarse teeth with a low teeth-per-inch (TPI) count, which makes them ideal for rough cutting.
Metal cutting blades, on the other hand, are generally on the shorter side. You can find them in the market in lengths as short as 2-3/4 inches to as long as 6 inches.
They have medium to fine teeth, and they also often come in variants that combine carbide tips or carbide coated teeth with steel or alloy for longer cutting life.
Finally, some reciprocating saw blades don’t come with teeth at all. These blades grind instead of rip into the material with the help of carbide-based abrasive grit coatings, or the more expensive diamond grit ones.
2. Blade Clamp
Reciprocating saws that require tools to change the blade will usually have a blade clamp assembly to securely hold the blade. To change a blade on a reciprocating saw with a blade clamp, first you need to loosen or remove a set screw using a screwdriver or an Allen wrench.
This releases the blade clamp, along with the blade, so you can remove them from the reciprocating shaft. To install a new blade, insert the blade shank from the front between the reciprocating shaft and the blade clamp, put the set screw back in the hole and retighten securely.
3. Blade Collet or Blade Holder
Reciprocating saws that come with a blade holder or blade collet lets you change blades without the need for tools. Most of them work similarly to the chuck of a drill. To fit a blade to a blade collet, rotate the collet counterclockwise to loosen the chuck.
Then insert the blade into the blade collet. Some models are spring loaded, so you only need to release the collet to secure the blade. Others require you to retighten the collet by rotating it clockwise. In any case, check that the blade is secure by giving it a tug or two.
4. Blade Pressure Plate
Blade pressure plates secure the blade to the reciprocating shaft between two plates and at least two nuts. You may find these usually on pneumatic reciprocating saws made for industrial cutting.
You need to disassemble and reassemble the bolts and nuts of the pressure plate to change your blades, but once you tighten everything up, that blade is as secure as it gets.
5. Blade Guard or Shoe
The shoe of the reciprocating saw does more than just help protect your hands from the blade. You can also use them as a leverage point to start plunge cuts.
If you have a tool with an adjustable shoe, you can also use the show to adjust the depth of cut. You can also use it help even out the rate of wear on your blade by setting it forward or backward depending on which part of the blade you want to use more.
6. Blade Guard / Shoe Locking Button or Lever
Reciprocating saws with adjustable shoes may come with a button or lever that you can press or release to unlock or lock the shoe in place. If your saw doesn’t come with one, you may have a fixed shoe, or you may need tools to adjust it.
7. Brush Cap
Some reciprocating saw makers use brush caps to give owners access to the carbon brushes on their tools. Most saws that have them will usually have one on either side.
Loosen the brush cap to remove the cap and the worn-out brush. To replace them, simply put the new brush and brush cap in the opening and retighten.
8. Cordless Tool Battery Pack
A cordless reciprocating saw will come with a battery pack, which is usually mounted on the back of the tool or at the bottom of the handle. To detach the battery, find the battery button and press it as you gently pull the battery off.
9. Dust Shroud and Extraction Tube
Some reciprocating saw models come with dust extraction features, which is usually in the form of a dust shroud that covers the muzzle of the tool.
These shrouds also come with an extraction tube that you can connect to a vacuum so that all dust and debris are sucked away from the front of the tool.
10. Electrical Cord
Corded reciprocating saws will, of course, come with an electrical cord that you need to plug into an outlet. Some models come with removable electrical cords that you can detach from the tool to facilitate storage and transport.
11. Hand Grip
Regular size reciprocating saws will usually come with a hand grip just behind the blade guard or muzzle of the tool. These help you hold the tool securely with two hands, while also giving you plenty of grip. You will not usually find a hand grip on compact reciprocating saws designed for one-handed use.
12. Handle (Rear)
The rear handle of a reciprocating saw usually comes in the form of a D handle or a pistol grip, to give you access to the power trigger and the lock-on switch. The battery packs on the cordless models usually go on the bottom of the handle. Compact reciprocating saws usually come with just the pistol grip.
13. Lock-on Button
The lock-on button is usually located just above the trigger switch. Pressing this button lets you run the reciprocating saw at its current speed even if you let go of the trigger switch, which can be handy for longer cuts or for cuts that require consistent speed.
14. Orbital Action Selector (Wheel or Lever)
The orbital action selector lets you select the orbital action setting of the reciprocating saw. Turning on orbital action causes the tool to move the blade in an upwards and downwards motion, in addition to forward and backward.
The tip of the blade follows a semi-elliptical path, hence the name of the feature.
Turning on the orbital action makes the reciprocating saw cut more aggressively, and it also lengthens the stroke length, too. This can significantly speed up rough cutting tasks, especially if you are working with wood or softer materials.
For cutting into metal or ceramic, it’s best to turn the orbital action off.
15. Speed Range Selector (Wheel or Lever)
The speed range selector is usually placed near the handle. Choosing a speed with the selector sets a maximum speed that the tool will reach, and it will not exceed that speed even if you press the trigger switch all the way inwards.
This can be handy for ensuring that you are doing a slow cut on metal, where overheating the blade can be an issue.
16. Trigger Switch
Pressing the trigger switch turns the reciprocating saw on, and releasing it turns the tool off.
Aside from turning on the tool, the trigger switch also acts as a variable speed control for the tool – the deeper you press it inward, the faster the tool runs, up to the limit set by the speed range selector.
Electric reciprocating saws usually have the switch inside the rear handle of the tool, while some small pneumatic models have a clip-style switch on top of the tool instead.
17. Vents
The vents on the side of the tool ensure that the motor can safely circulate heat outside. Make sure that you don’t cover the vents while the tool is in use, to avoid potentially overheating the tool.
Also, check the vent from time to time to see if sparks or burnt odor is coming out of them – these can be signs that you need to change the motor brushes, or you need to lubricate the tool.
